Picton Castle stands above the Eastern Cleddau near Haverfordwest, eighteen kilometres north-west of Tenby, and it is unusual among Welsh castles in having been continuously lived in rather than ruined.
Built around 1300 by Sir John Wogan, held by the Philipps family from the fifteenth century until it passed to a charitable trust, and remodelled in the eighteenth century into a country house without losing its medieval core — so it has drum towers and Georgian sash windows in the same wall.
The gardens cover about forty acres and are the main reason to make the trip.
The Woodland Garden is the heart of it: mature oak and beech underplanted with a rhododendron and camellia collection of national importance, including champion specimens and hybrids bred here.
March to June is the display, and it is exceptional.
The Walled Garden — a formal enclosure with herbaceous borders, a fernery, a rose garden, a herb garden and a fountain. Well kept, and the best part of the site in high summer.
A maze, wildflower meadows and woodland walks down towards the Cleddau.
Champion trees — several British and Welsh record specimens.
A nursery with unusual plants for sale.
Late spring is the peak; the walled garden carries the summer; autumn colour and a quiet winter walk make it worth the drive out of season too.
The castle interior is not always open. It runs on limited days, by guided tour, and closes for private events and conservation work.
A steady stream of visitors arrive expecting to see inside and find it shut, and say so. Check the castle opening separately from the garden opening before travelling — it is a half-hour drive from Tenby.
When open, the tour covers the medieval undercroft, the Georgian rooms and the family collection.
A restaurant and coffee shop, which visitors rate highly.
A second-hand bookshop and craft and gift outlets.
Children’s play areas and trails, which make it work with a family better than a serious garden usually does.
Events through the season — plant fairs, craft fairs and outdoor performances.
Admission charged, and described as not too expensive.
Time: two to three hours for the gardens, more with the castle and lunch. Visitors regularly say they needed longer than they allowed.
Parking: plentiful and free on site.
Facilities: restaurant, coffee shop, shops, toilets.
Access: the walled garden and main paths are largely manageable; the woodland walks have slopes and unsurfaced sections.
Dogs: on leads in the grounds.
Off the A40 east of Haverfordwest, signposted, about thirty-five minutes from Tenby by road.
The Daugleddau — the wooded inland estuary where the two Cleddau rivers meet, the quietest part of the national park, with walks from Landshipping and Lawrenny.
Haverfordwest, with its own castle ruin and priory.
Carew Castle is between here and Tenby.
Only on limited days and by tour, and it closes for events and conservation. Check castle opening separately before travelling.
March to June for the rhododendrons and camellias; the walled garden carries the summer.
Two to three hours for the gardens — visitors regularly wish they had allowed more.
Yes, plentiful and free on site.
Eighteen kilometres north-west, about thirty-five minutes by road.